EUREKA SPRINGS HISTORIC DISTRICT COMMISSION
DESIGN REVIEW GUIDELINES
2005 Edition
A. Additions must be of a compatible design in
keeping with the original structures character, roof shape, materials, color,
and alignment of window, door, and cornice height, etc.
B. Additions must be secondary (subordinate) to
the original structure in scale, design, and placement.
C. Additions should be located onto the rear
facade, not on primary facade or visible parts of secondary facades.
D. Additions must not attempt to imitate an
earlier historic style or architectural period.
E. Additions must be constructed in a manner that
avoids extensive removal or loss of historic materials, and which does not
damage or destroy character-defining features.
F. It is recommended that the exterior walls of
the original structure be kept intact and existing opening utilized for
connecting an addition with the original structure.
G. Additions should not be created through
enclosure of a front porch or architecturally important prominent side porch.
H. Excavation adjacent to historic
foundations must take care to avoid undermining the structural stability of the
historic building.
Includes gazebos, greenhouses, garages, carports, storage
buildings, etc.
A. Existing
1. Must be maintained in good condition.
2. If visible from street should maintain original style and scale.
B. New
1. Should be set at least two-thirds way back from front façade of the primary structure.
2. Should be located where such a structure would have been historically (near
the rear of the property, not near or attached to the primary structure).
3. Metal carports are not permitted in
historic neighborhoods.
Eaves, brackets, dentils, cornices, molding, trim-work,
shingles, columns, pilasters, balustrades, or any decorative or
character-defining features.
A. It is preferable to repair rather than replace an original architectural detail or feature.
B. It is not appropriate to add details unless original and authentic to the structure and accurately based on physical, pictorial, or historical evidence (not conjecture) in materials, scale, location, proportions, form and detailing.
C. Original details must not be removed or changed.
A. Should be individually located within major bays, not continuous.
B. Should not cover architectural features.
C. Should be of colors to blend with the structure.
D. Should be made to fit opening and shall be of a style appropriate to the building.
E. Cloth or Canvas is most appropriate in the Historic District.
(Note: Awnings have traditionally been used more for function (shade) than for decoration. In terms of decoration, awnings have fallen in and out of favor over the years. If too many awnings are used on a structure or if awnings are used on too many dwellings in an area, the result can be visual clutter. For commercial buildings, historic storefronts often have awnings and a row of commercial buildings with storefront awnings is appropriate.)
A. Materials original to the building should be preserved.
B. Do not sandblast, use abrasive cleaning or
high pressure water. These processes damage brick surfaces and erode mortar
joints.
C. Clean with low
pressure water and detergent using natural bristle brushes.
D. To avoid needlessly introducing moisture or
chemicals into the building, brick and masonry should be cleaned only when
necessary to remove heavy soiling and to stop deterioration.
E. Paint removal should not be done if the
paint is firmly adhered and is therefore protecting the masonry surface.
F. Water-repellent coatings should not be added
unless masonry repairs have failed to stop water penetration problems.
G. As a general rule,
brick and masonry must not be painted unless, in the case of brick, the brick
is extremely mismatched from earlier alterations or cannot withstand
weather. (Stone must not be painted.)
H. Brick and masonry must not be stuccoed.
I. Mortar should be removed by hand tools, not electric power saws, for repairs. Electric tools can damage older brick.
J. Re-pointing should match original width,
depth, color, raking profile, composition and texture.
K. Re-pointing must never be done with Portland
cement or other hard mortar. Use
original compound, if it can be determined, or use a historic compound
such as one part lime and two parts sand. Original type mortar compounds allow
for expansion and contraction, while hard mortar or cement prevents the
expansion and contraction process and will cause the masonry to fail. The HDC
Resource Library in City Hall has more information on the proper processes.
L. Features that are missing may be replaced
where extensive deterioration requires, if accurately duplicated.
A. Original chimneys which are prominent features of the structure should not be removed or changed. Non-functional chimneys should be maintained and not removed above the roofline. It may be appropriate to remove non-functional secondary chimneys.
B. Chimneys should be re-pointed and cleaned according to masonry guidelines to match original materials, colors, shape, brick pattern and tooling.
C. If reconstruction of a chimney is necessary due to structural instability or deterioration, it should be rebuilt in the original configuration.
D. Aluminum or clad chimneys are not appropriate.
A. The International Building Code is the standard of the City of Eureka Springs and must be strictly adhered to.
B. Health codes will be strictly enforced.
C. Any work requiring approval from the Historic District Commission will take into account International Building Code regulations.
A. Storefronts on Commercial Buildings
1. Preserve (maintain or restore, not remove or alter) existing original storefronts.
2. Storefront features that are deteriorated should be repaired rather than replaced.
3. If replacement of the original storefront is necessary due to significant deterioration, replace with features to match the original in design and materials.
4. Storefronts remodeled after the 1940's should be rebuilt based on pictorial or physical evidence of the original design. If the original storefront design and features cannot be determined, install a traditional storefront arrangement with features, materials, and proportions typical of similar buildings of the same style or period.
5. Original storefront doors should be preserved and maintained. Traditional entrance arrangements such as recessed or flush with the sidewalk should be maintained.
6. If the original door design is unknown, replace with a single light (glass area): door design, not solid paneled door, decorative doors, or any kind of door based on a different historical period or style.
7. Preserve, maintain, and repair original display windows. If a storefront is missing display windows, new windows should match the original in location, design, size, and materials.
8. Display window mullion or framing should be of wood, copper, or bronze metal.
9. Clear, rather than tinted glass, should be used for storefronts. If privacy, or shade is required, use interior shades or blinds.
10. Preserve, maintain, and repair bulkheads (kickplates) where they exist. Original bulkhead panels should not be removed.
11. Paint color on commercial buildings should conform to original color or general streetscape. Unpainted brick must not be painted.
B. Windows on Commercial Buildings
1. Original window sashes should be preserved, maintained, and repaired -- including size, number and arrangement of lights, materials, and decorative detailing. Windows should not be concealed, enclosed or covered.
C. Upper Level of Commercial Buildings
1. Preserve, maintain, and repair original appearance and details of brick, concrete, or terra cotta cornices. Cornices must not be concealed or covered with modern materials.
2. Architectural details such as brick corbelling, inlaid brick and concrete patterns, or clay tile roofs must not be removed or concealed.
3. Decorative architectural features should not be added to a commercial building where none originally existed.
4. Missing architectural features should be replaced. Facades which conceal the original facade and cornice should be removed.
5. Do not paint unpainted masonry surfaces on commercial building.
D. Awnings on Commercial Buildings
1.When adding awnings to a building use traditional awning designs, materials, and placement. Awnings should be of canvas, or vinyl coated fabric. Shed awnings are most appropriate for downtown Eureka Springs commercial buildings.
E. Light Fixtures on Commercial Buildings
1. Preserve, maintain, and repair exterior historic light fixtures. If historic light fixtures do not exist, or require replacement, use concealed light fixtures, fixtures of simple design, or fixtures appropriate to the period of the building.
F. Garbage Collectors for Commercial Buildings
1. Should be located to the rear and screened from street view.
2. Materials to screen garbage collectors should be compatible with surrounding buildings.
A. Should generally be avoided unless necessary to access new parking for commercial and institutional structures.
B. Should be constructed to match the historic or traditional curb cuts of the district in size, color, materials, and configuration.
C. Curb cuts should conform to the City of Eureka Springs Building and Municipal Codes for allowable locations.
A. Decks should be located on the rear and screened from street view with fencing and/or plants and shrubs where visible.
B. Decks should be stained or painted to blend with the house if visible from street view.
C. The style of the deck, balusters and railing should match the style of the house.
D. Decks should be kept to a minimum and subordinate to house and yard in size and scale.
E. Inappropriate decks shall be made compatible with the building or must be removed prior to the approval of any new decks.
A. The demolition of any original feature or part of a historic building must be avoided.
B. Demolition of a building within the Historic District should not occur, unless:
1. Public safety and welfare requires the removal of a building or structure as determined by the Building Official, in writing, with a concurring written report commissioned by and acceptable to the Eureka Springs Historic District Commission from a structural engineer, architect, or other person expert in historic preservation. Demolition by neglect will bar a property owner from raising a public safety and welfare claim.
2. Economic hardship -- the fact that no reasonable return on or use of the building exists -- has been demonstrated, proven, and accepted by the Eureka Springs Historic District Commission. Demolition by neglect will bar a property owner from raising an economic hardship claim.
3. No other reasonable alternative is deemed feasible by the Eureka Springs Historic District Commission, including relocation of the building.
C. Application for a COA for demolition must be accompanied by a detailed master plan for the entire site, preferably an architect or engineer.
D. Demolition of pre-1955 secondary (ancillary) buildings (garages, storage sheds, etc.) may be appropriate if substantially deteriorated (requiring 50% or more replacement of exterior siding, roof rafters, surface material and structural members) as certified in writing by the Building Official.
E. Unapproved demolitions will be subject to maximum violation penalties. Each day the violation exists shall constitute a separate offense until a faithful restoration of the demolished building is completed or unless otherwise agreed to by the Eureka Springs Historic District Commission. Further, no application for a Certificate of Appropriateness will be considered for a period of five years from the date of the demolition on the subject parcel of land or any adjoining parcels of land under common ownership and control, unless the COA is a request for the faithful restoration referred to above or unless otherwise agreed to by the Eureka Springs Historic District Commission.
12.
Doors
A. Original doors and/or their entranceway surrounds, sidelights, transoms, and detailing shall not be removed or changed.
B. Replacement of missing original doors shall be like or very similar to the original in style, materials, glazing (glass area) and lights (pane configuration)
C. Extra doors (new cuts) should not be added to the primary facade or to secondary facades where readily visible from the street.
D. Doors, if added where inconspicuous on secondary or rear facades, should be similar to the original doors, not of a style or period earlier than the original building.
E. Any doors added to a historic building must match original door materials and must be of a design compatible with the structure in size and scale.
F. See also 36.C&D, Screen Doors; 37A, Security Doors; 46A, Storm Doors.
A. The original designs, materials and placement of driveways should be preserved.
B. Residential driveways should be located to the side. Garages, carports and parking pads should be sited in the rear yards unless original carport and/or garage was located to the side.
C. Concrete, concrete aggregate, patterned concrete, or brick are permitted for driveways. Concrete "tracks" for driveways were historically used and are encouraged for new paved driveways in the Historic District.
D. Asphalt driveways for residences are not permitted.
E. Front yards should not to be paved, covered with gravel, or otherwise used as a parking area.
A. Iron, wood, stone, or brick fences or walls that are original to the structure (or built before 1955) should be preserved, or if missing, may be reconstructed based on physical or pictorial evidence.
B. Iron fences are appropriate on substantially-sized structures other than bungalows and other Craftsman style houses.
C. New fences including wooden picket designs must be a maximum of three-and-a-half feet tall in front; have pickets no wider than four inches and set no further apart than three inches; and be of a design which is appropriate to the house. (See D. for rear wooden fences.)
D. Wood board fences for privacy should be located in rear yards; no taller than eight feet; set at least two-thirds back from the front facade (wall plane) of the structure; and should be stained or painted to blend with the structure; and of a compatible design.
E. Free-standing brick, stone, or concrete walls are permitted if appropriate to the structure.
F. Fences should not have brick, stone, or concrete piers or posts unless based on evidence that they are historically appropriate for the particular type of building and style in Eureka Springs.
G. Ornamental wire fences, such as hairpin fencing, are permitted in front yards if painted and may also be located in rear yards.
H. Fences of railroad ties or timbers, whether freestanding or as retaining walls, are not permitted.
I. Chain link fences are not permitted in the Historic District. Property owners with existing chain link fences are encouraged to screen them with evergreen hedges, ivy or other creeping cover or by painting them dark green or black.
J. Fences of chicken wire, rabbit wire, hog wire, barbed wire or vinyl are not permitted in the Historic District.
A. Fire escapes are not permitted unless required by the building inspector, and no other means of fire escape is reasonably feasible. Fire escapes are required to be located where not readily visible from the street.
A. Foundations should be preserved in the original design and with original materials and detailing.
B. Infilling between piers should be done as traditional for the type and style of the house, generally with wood lattice framed panels or with brick and mortar color appropriate for the period of the house.
C. Exposed foundations shall be limestone or brick veneered, or sheathed to match the building.
D. Masonry foundations should be cleaned, repaired, and cared for according to masonry guidelines.
A. For institutional and commercial structures, garbage collectors should be located in the rear and screened from street view with fencing or shrubbery.
B. For residential areas in the Historic District, it is not permitted for a single-family home to have a permanent garbage collector. If (as in the case of a multi-family residential building), a garbage collector is necessary, it should be located at the rear of the house, or movable to the location of garbage pickup.
C. In no case should bagged, boxed or any other garbage other than in permanent garbage collectors be placed on the street longer that 24 hours before regular pickup days.
A. Boxed or built-in type gutters should be repaired rather than replaced if possible.
B. Downspouts on the front of the house should be located away from significant architectural features.
C. Gutters should be used to provide proper drainage through use of downspouts and flashing, if needed, to avoid water damage to the building.
A. Ramps should be located on secondary or rear facades.
B. Ramps should be of stained or painted wood construction.
C. Ramps should be screened with landscaping or low shrubbery to soften their appearance.
A. Features that are original or early (pre-1955) such as sidewalks, green space, retaining walls, curbs, stepping blocks, etc. should be pre- served.
B. Plant beds of railroad ties, cut wood, concrete, or any other structural material are prohibited.
C. Plant materials (other than that required for screening parking lots) do not require approval.
D. Landscaping should not overwhelm a dwelling, conceal or obscure the primary facade.
E. It is important to maintain the large trees that line the streets of the Historic District through regular pruning. Missing trees should be replaced, when possible, in similar patterns to the originals.
F. Landscaping must conform to the requirements of the City of Eureka Springs Municipal Code governing trees, tree removal, and site clearing.
G. Landscape projects should be considered an important part of any site rehabilitation or new construction. In such cases, planting a strip of trees at the street edge, using landscaping to buffer parking. Landscaping to accent the scale, proportion, and massing of a building is encouraged.
H. Permanent landscape features such as water features, ponds,patios, outdoor fireplaces and
garden walls of two feet or more above
grade must be approved by the HDC.
Note: Although
landscape planning does not require approval, general considerations are to use
landscape plants native to Northwest Arkansas. Maintain, do not remove,
historic or early landscaping, especially trees. Prune and regularly maintain
mature shade trees. Keep new landscape patterns historically traditional for
the neighborhood and avoid concealing architectural features of the historic
building.
A. Lighting fixtures original to the building must be preserved.
B. Fixtures to be added should be from the period of the structure, of if new, simple in design, and mounted on porch ceilings or on the exterior wall adjacent to the primary entrance.
C. Security lighting should be mounted on secondary and rear facades with care taken on placement and direction to minimize intrusion on neighbors as well as street and pedestrian traffic.
D. Small foot-lights rather than freestanding post-mounted lights are more appropriate for walkways and driveways.
E. Fixtures evocative of a period earlier than the building should not be used. Refer to historical photographs and research for appropriate period light fixtures.
F. Post-mounted lights in residential areas should not exceed ten feet in height and should be brass, copper or painted metal on posts of wood, cast iron or painted metal.
G. Although no original commercial area streetlights remain, it would be appropriate to add fixtures based on original designs. (Historical photographs available)
H. Street lighting in the residential district should provide effective security for the neighborhood without compromising the historic large trees lining the streets.
I. Mercury vapor lights are prohibited.
A. Materials
1. Prevent water from making contact with exterior wood siding. Of particular importance is keeping all gutters and downspouts in good repair to keep water from infiltrating the wood surface.
2. All exposed wood should be kept painted or treated with preservative.
3. Repairs for wood siding, such as cracks, can be made through the use of waterproof glue or plastic wood. Large cracks may be filled with caulk followed by putty or plastic wood. The surface should then be sanded and painted.
4. If exterior siding must be replaced, treated wood is recommended. Replacement siding must match the profile of the existing siding.
5. Oil based paints and back priming are recommended for exterior siding.
6. Keep exterior brick clean of mildew, efflorescence and dirt, vines, ivy, and other plants. Washing with detergents and water are best for exterior masonry and mortar. Sandblasting, water blasting and other abrasive cleaning methods are detrimental to historic building and must not be used.
7. Re-pointing historic mortar must be done with a mortar which matches the original in appearance and composition. The use of Portland Cement is generally not appropriate due to the hardness of the mortar versus the softness of the brick. Most mortar prior to 1900 was composed of lime and sand. Mortar with similar content should be applied. More information available in HDC Resource Library.
8. Most silicone-based or waterproof coatings have limited effectiveness and may actually add to moisture problems by not allowing the brick to breathe. The use of these products is discouraged.
B. Roof, Cornices, Chimneys
1. Check the roof regularly for leak deterioration of flashing, and worn or missing roofing. An inspection of the upper floor or attic space during or following a rainstorm can also assist in detection of water-related problems.
2. Know what metals are used in your cornice or roof flashing and use only similar metals during replacement or repair. Different metals should not touch each other or galvanic reaction may occur leading to corrosion.
3. Metal roofs and cornices should be kept painted to prevent rust and deterioration. Appropriate paints include those with an iron oxide oil base. Asphalt based paints and aluminum paints should not be use on historic metals as they could accelerate the rusting process.
4. Chimneys should be regularly checked for cracking, leaning, spalling, and infestation by birds and insects. Use chimney caps or flue openings to keep out moisture.
C. Gutters and Downspouts
1. Keep gutters and downspouts in good repair. Make sure they are properly connected, are clean of leaves and other debris, and channel water away from the building. Seal all cracks in downspouts with silicone caulk or sealants.
2. Use splash blocks to keep water away from the foundation.
3. Deteriorated gutters and downspouts should be replaced. Half-round gutters and round downspouts are preferable to corrugated designs.
D. Foundations
1. All water should drain away from a building and should not enter the foundation.
2. Trees, shrubs and other plants should be kept well away from the foundation to prevent damage from moisture and root movement.
E. Porches & Exterior Ornamentation
1. Use treated wood for exterior repairs and replacement of wooden elements.
2. Keep all porch and trim elements painted.
3. Front and side porches visible from the street must be kept clear of appliances, indoor furniture, trash and debris.
F. Entrances
1. Doors, transoms, sidelights and glass should be kept clean.
2. Original locks and hardware should be kept oiled and in good repair. If original hardware is missing or is deteriorated, use reproduction locks and hardware suitable for the building.
3. Doors with stained wood finish should be kept varnished and not painted.
G. Windows
1. Windows should be kept clean. Paint wood sash surfaces regularly.
2. Windows should be kept caulked and sealed to aid in energy conservation.
3. Shutters should be kept painted and in good repair.
4. Deteriorated curtains or shades should be removed or replaced.
H. Awnings
1. Canvas awnings should be washed periodically and kept in good repair.
2. Awning hardware should be regularly checked for rust or loose mechanisms.
3. Torn or deteriorated awnings should be replaced.
I. Signs
1. Abandoned signs and hardware should be removed from building, unless historic.
2. Signs should be kept painted and mounting bolts checked periodically to make sure they are secure.
3. Light fixtures, conduits, and wiring should be replaced as necessary.
A. Substituting original materials in making repairs or in replacing missing features is prohibited.
B. Application of artificial and uncharacteristic materials such as steel, aluminum or vinyl siding, and imitation stucco obscures the original character of the building and neighborhood and is prohibited.
C. Save deteriorated parts which must be replaced. Wood siding, soffits, fascia, brackets, ornamental shingles, wooden sash windows and doors can often be restored or duplicated.
D. If original siding must be replaced, new siding should match the original as closely as possible, especially with respect to board size, profile and material. Original corner boards should be duplicated in their full original width.
E. Repair existing stucco and stucco texture. It is inappropriate to remove stucco from any originally stuccoed surface or to add stucco as a major wall material to any building which did not originally use stucco as the dominant exterior wall material.
Note: The application of
synthetic wall material such as aluminum and vinyl siding has long been
discouraged by preservationists due to the fact that the placement of these
materials may seal the wall and cause the wood to rot. In many cases, existing
rotted wood is not removed and
the structural integrity of the house is at risk due to unseen progressive
decay.
A. New HVAC units should be located where not readily visible from the street.
B. Existing systems, if visible, should be screened with shrubbery or fencing.
C. Window air-conditioners should be located in windows on the rear or side facades and must not result in the removal or replacement of the original window sash or surround.
D. Electrical and gas meters and other mechanical equipment must be located on the rear façade in all new construction.
E. New openings for heating and air-conditioning units must not be made on primary facades. New cuts on secondary facades, if visible from the street, must be carefully placed to minimize visual and structural impact.
A. It may be appropriate to move a building into the Historic District if that building is compatible with the District’s architectural character in style, period, height, scale, materials, setting, and placement on the lot. See 26. New Construction.
B. New foundation walls should be compatible with the architectural style of the building.
C. Moving existing buildings that contribute to the historic/architectural character of the district out of the district should be avoided unless demolition is the only alternative.
New construction project applicants are advised to begin
with a pre-application hearing and site visit with working drawings. See Design
Review Checklist.
A. New construction of
primary buildings shall maintain, not disrupt, the existing pattern of
surrounding historic buildings along the street by being similar in the
following:
1. Scale (height and width)
2. Shape
3. Roof shape and pitch
4. Orientation to the street
5. Location and proportion of entrances, windows, columns, porches, and divisional bays
6. Foundation/first floor height
7. Floor to ceiling height
8. Porch height and depth
9. Material and material color
10. Texture
11. Placement on the lot
12. Rhythm and harmony of the neighborhood.
B. New construction of ancillary structures such as garages, gazebos, storage buildings and other outbuildings should be:
1. Smaller in scale than the primary building
2. Simple in design but reflecting the general character of the primary building
3. Located where such a structure would have historically been located (near the alley, not close to or attached to the primary building).
4. Compatible in design, shape, materials, and roof shape.
5. Metal carports are not permitted in historic neighborhoods.
6. See also 2. Ancillary Structures.
C. As an acknowledge fact of the continuing developmental pattern of a dynamic, changing community,non-period, innovative design of new structures may be acceptable,provided it is in keeping with the above-stated criteria of compatibility.
Non-historic buildings are
considered non-contributing by the Arkansas Historic Preservation
Program. Non-contributing structures are reviewed for their compatibility
within the Historic District (size, massing, scale and rhythm) and not
necessarily for their individual elements. Although a building may not be
historic at this time, some day it will be. (It is generally accepted that a
building is considered “historic” when it reaches 50 years.) Each building
period has its own details and characteristics which give that particular
building its uniqueness. Non-historic buildings should be maintained as close
to their original design as possible. It is in the owner’s best interests to
maintain the historic value of the property.
Buildings that are 50 years or older are considered
historic regardless of how plain, unattractive, common or unimportant their
owners or others perceive them to be.
Even though these buildings are historic, they may also be considered non-contributing
by the Arkansas Historic Preservation Program for one or more reasons:
1. Non-historic materials have been used for
replacement or added: i.e. wood
windows replaced with vinyl windows, artificial siding.
2. Inappropriate changes or additions have been made:
i.e. original details removed,
primary or secondary porch enclosed, roofline
altered, out-of-scale addition.
If these changes were reversed and exterior once
again made historically accurate, the building would then be a contributing
structure. So all historic structures, even the non-contributing ones, must be
protected from further inappropriate changes.
A. Paint colors should highlight architectural details. Keep colors compatible with the building's style and period of construction; avoid loud, garish, or harsh colors, and bright hues; avoid too many colors on a building; and select where to highlight architectural details based on historic tradition for the building's type and style.
B. Craftsman style homes were generally painted or stained in deep rich tones with lighter trim. Colonial Revival buildings were generally pale tones with one or two accent colors. A broader color palette and accenting of details may be used on Victorian homes.
C. Do not paint brick, stone or other naturally unpainted materials unless the material has been painted previously.
D. Color determination should be based on historic schemes appropriate for the style of the building. Reference materials are available in the HDC Resource Library and most paint manufacturers have historic color palettes available.
A. In an existing park, original pre-1955 buildings, site features (such as benches, walls, etc.) and park layout should be preserved, if possible.
B. New park space should conform to its location. In a residential area, a low-impact park with playground equipment and benches is appropriate. Landscaping should conform to the surrounding area with as many original shade trees as possible.
C. Proposed new playground equipment must be reviewed by ES HDC.
A. No property shall be
converted to parking usage without Commission approval.
B. Parking is not
permitted in residential front yards.
C. Residential and
commercial parking areas should be
gravel, concrete, concrete aggregate, patterned concrete, stone, crushed
limestone, or brick. Asphalt is an additional option for commercial parking
areas only.
D. Concrete
“tracts” are encouraged for new paved residential driveways.
E. Parking lots
should be screened with hedges, shrubs, trees, and/or fences at edges and in
medians within.
F. Parking lots for
houses used for commercial purposes, churches, apartment buildings, or schools,
whenever possible, should be located no closer to the street than the front
wall of the building.
G. Parking lots
between buildings should align edge screening with front facades of adjacent
buildings.
H. Parking lots on
comer lots should have edge screening on both streets.
A. Porches on front and side facades should be maintained in their original configuration and with original materials and detailing.
B. The porch in its original design was intended as a focal point for the entrance to the house and must not be removed if original. Enclosure of a porch changes the overall character of a house and must be avoided. See 1.G. Additions and 36.A. Screens.
C. Enclosure or removal of a porch can make a building facade seem flat. Without a porch there is no transition from sidewalk to house. If a rear porch must be enclosed, the manner of the enclosure should not destroy the original openness, focus and transition from outside to inside. The use of materials and details compatible with the original character of the house is important in any necessary porch enclosure.
D. Porch details must be retained intact with repair and replacement of missing parts, such as columns, posts, railings, balusters, decorative molding and trim, to match the original in design, materials, scale, and placement.
E. Vinyl materials are not permitted. See also 22.E. Maintenance.
two feet is considered to be a garden
wall. See 20. Landscaping.
A. Stone, brick or concrete
retaining walls that are original to the site must be
preserved and maintained.
B. If a dry-stack wall is
reconstructed, mortar may be approved, but it must be recessed
to re-create the appearance of dry-stack.
C. New retaining walls must
be stone, stone veneer or limestone-imprinted concrete of
an approved pattern and color.
D. Existing concrete and
concrete block retaining walls should be screened if possible.
A. The original shape and pitch of the roof with original features (such as cresting, chimneys, finials, dormers, etc.) should be preserved and if previously altered, replaced with original form and detailing.
B. The use of fiberglass shingles is appropriate if the use of original material is not economically feasible. Dark colors are best for historic buildings.
C. Unless original to the structure, dormers should not be placed in front rooflines. The addition of dormers to secondary and rear facades is appropriate if in keeping with the character and scale of the house.
D. Skylights, decks, or balconies must not be added to a roof where visible from the street.
E. Standing seam metal roofs are not appropriate except for some non-residential structures.
F. New types of roofing materials will be considered on a case-by-case basis.
Satellite
dishes must only be installed in rear yards or side yards not visible from the
street.
A. Screening of front porches is not appropriate.
B. Side and rear porches may be screened (although discouraged) if the structural framework for the screen panels is minimal and the open appearance of the porch is maintained.
C. Screen doors must be preserved and maintained if original.
D. Screen doors if new, must be wood and full-view or with structural members aligned with those of the original door. Style must be appropriate to the building.
E. Window screens must be wood or baked-on or anodized aluminum and fit within the window frames, not overlap the frames.
A. Security doors should be simple and without excessively ornate grillwork.
B. The use of security bars on primary facade windows is
discouraged, but if necessary, internal moveable gates may be considered.
A. Windows should not have
shutters added unless the building originally had them, or they are appropriate
to the style of the structure.
B. Shutters should be of
louvered wood construction, and of a size appropriate to the window opening.
C. Window boxes should be of
a size appropriate to the window opening and building.
See “Summary” ES Municipal Code, Section 9.08 Sidewalks, page 47.
A. Siding original to the building should be repaired and maintained. Replacement is permitted only when necessary due to deterioration.
B. Siding of artificial or substitute materials such as steel, vinyl or aluminum, masonite or permastone, etc. is not allowed as replacement or cover for original siding. Concrete or other composite siding materials may be allowed for additions and new construction.
C. Wall shingles original to the building should be preserved. If replacement is necessary, new shingles should match the original in size, placement and design. (Replacement with siding is not appropriate.)
A. Signage must not obscure the building’s façade or hide the building’s character. Signage must reflect or compliment the architectural features of the structure.
B. The placement of new signage in the same location as 19th century signage on a particular structure is encouraged. This may be determined from historic photographs.
C. Some examples of compatible signs are:
1. Signs painted directly on window glass.
2. Signs placed in the original signboard area.
3. Freestanding signs in yards.
4. Projecting signs with no guide wires.
5. Hanging signs.
D. Signage which was successfully integrated into a building’s design can be considered a historic addition and may be retained as a historic element. The conservation of signs painted on walls and historic neon signs is now recognized as an important part of historic preservation.
E. Colors and materials.
1. Colors should be the same as or compliment those used on the structure.
2. Fluorescent colors and reflective paints or materials are specifically excluded.
3. Gold and metal leaf is appropriate for lettering and design elements but not as a background or major surface.
3. Neon will be considered as a material when appropriate to the age, architecture and location of the structure on a case-by-case basis. Signs may not use motion or flashing lights as per the Eureka Springs Municipal Code.
F. The shape of signs, design elements and style of lettering should be complimentary to the structure.
G. Supports, brackets, posts, and other visible devises for mounting or hanging a sign must be approved by the Commission and conform to the above guidelines.
H. All signs, number
and location of signs and lighting must conform to the Eureka Springs Municipal
Code, Chapter 7.84 Signs. This varies by zone.
Skylights
must not be added where visible from the street.
Solar
energy panels must be located on rear sections of the roof, behind dormers or
gables or other areas not visible from the street.
A.
Staircases must not be added to building exteriors where visible from the
street.
B.
Stair railings and gates must be compatible in design and materials with
existing railings on the building.
A.
Steps and walkways original to a property must be retained and maintained.
B.
Step railings (if required) and gates must be of design and materials
compatible to the structure on the
property and surrounding landscape.
A. Storm doors must be full-view and baked-on enamel or anodized aluminum in a color compatible with the building. Silver aluminum storm doors on the primary and secondary facades are not appropriate.
B. Storm windows must be wood or baked-on enamel, or anodized aluminum in compatible colors and fit within the window frames, not overlap the frames. Silver aluminum storm windows on the primary and secondary facades are not appropriate.
A.
Swimming pools, hot tubs and spas must be located in the rear of the yard; set
back at least two-thirds from the front
façade (wall plane) of the structure.
B.
Swimming pools, hot tubs and spas must be screened from street view by fencing,
evergreens or lattice appropriate to the usage.
A. All plumbing, gas and electrical lines must be disconnected and capped in a safe manner in compliance with the City of Eureka Springs Building Code.
B. Debris from vacant lots must be removed.
C. Planting and maintenance of ground cover is encouraged. Grassy lots must be mowed.
D. Trees and shrubbery on vacant lots must be pruned and maintained.
A. Windows should be
preserved in their original location, size, and design and with their original
materials and numbers of panes.
B. Non-original windows must not be added to primary facades or to secondary facades where readily visible. Windows added to an historic building must match original windows in materials, size, design and scale.
C. Windows should be repaired rather than replaced. If replacement is necessary due to severe deterioration, the replacement should match the original in material and design as closely as possible.
D. Vinyl, vinyl-clad or any clad wood windows are prohibited on historic structures, but may be considered for new construction or if appropriate to the period of non-historic structures.
E. Jalousie, awning, or picture windows or glass block windows must only be used for replacement on buildings where it can be shown to have originally existed.
F. See also 36.E. Screens; 37.B. Security Bars; 38. Shutters; 46.B.Storm Windows.
A. Wood and wood details original to a building should be repaired rather than replaced.
B. Exposed structural elements such as beams and rafter rails are a decorative element in the Craftsman style and should be retained and maintained.
C. Replacement of wood features and details must match the originals in dimension, size, profile and materials.
D. Wood must always be treated and kept in good order (including paint, stain, nailing, etc.)