NON-HISTORIC RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS*
A. Additions must be of a compatible design in
keeping with the original structures character, roof shape, materials, color,
and alignment of window, door, and cornice height, etc.
B. Additions must be secondary (subordinate) to
the original structure in scale, design, and placement.
D. Additions must not attempt to imitate an
earlier historic style or architectural period.
E. Additions should not destroy significant
character-defining features.
Includes gazebos, greenhouses, garages, carports, storage
buildings, etc.
A. Existing
1. Must be maintained in good condition.
2. If visible from street should maintain original style and scale.
B. New
1. Should be set at least two-thirds way back from front façade of the primary structure.
2. Should be located where such a structure would have been historically (near the rear of the property, not near or attached to the primary structure).
Eaves, brackets, dentils, cornices, molding, trim-work,
shingles, columns, pilasters, balustrades, or any decorative or
character-defining features.
A. It is preferable to repair rather than replace an original architectural detail or feature.
B. Adding details of an earlier time period is not appropriate.
C. Significant architectural details should not be removed or changed.
A. Should be individually located within major bays, not continuous.
B. Should not cover architectural features.
C. Should be of colors to blend with the structure.
D. Should be made to fit opening and of a style appropriate to the building.
E. Cloth or Canvas is most appropriate in the Historic District.
A. Materials original to the building should be preserved.
B. Do not sandblast, use abrasive cleaning or
high pressure water. These processes damage brick surfaces and erode mortar
joints.
C. Clean with low
pressure water and detergent using natural bristle brushes.
D. To avoid needlessly introducing moisture or
chemicals into the building, brick and masonry should be cleaned only when necessary
to remove heavy soiling and to stop deterioration.
E. Paint removal should not be done if the
paint is firmly adhered and is therefore protecting the masonry surface.
F. Water-repellent coatings should not be added
unless masonry repairs have failed to stop water penetration problems.
G. As a general rule,
brick and masonry must not be painted unless, in the case of brick, the brick
is extremely mismatched from earlier alterations or cannot withstand
weather. (Stone must not be painted.)
H. Brick and masonry must not be stuccoed.
I. Mortar should be removed by hand tools, not electric power saws, for repairs. Electric tools can damage older brick.
J. Re-pointing should match original width,
depth, color, raking profile, composition and texture.
A. Original chimneys which are prominent features of the structure should not be removed or changed. Non-functional chimneys should be maintained and not removed above the roofline. It may be appropriate to remove non-functional secondary chimneys.
B. Chimneys should be re-pointed and cleaned according to masonry guidelines to match original materials, colors, shape, brick pattern and tooling.
C. If reconstruction of a chimney is necessary due to structural instability or deterioration, it should be rebuilt in the original configuration.
A. The International Building Code is the standard of the City of Eureka Springs and must be strictly adhered to.
B. Health codes will be strictly enforced.
C. Any work requiring approval from the Historic District Commission will take into account International Building Code regulations.
A. Decks should be located on the rear and screened from street view with fencing and/or plants and shrubs where visible.
B. Decks should be stained or painted to blend with the house if visible from street view.
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C. The style of the deck, balusters and railing should match the style of the house.
D. Decks should be kept to a minimum and subordinate to house and yard in size and scale.
A. Architecturally significant original doors and/or their entranceway surrounds, sidelights, transoms, and detailing shall not be removed or changed.
B. Extra doors (new cuts) should not be added to the primary facade or to secondary facades where readily visible from the street.
D. Doors, if added where inconspicuous on secondary or rear facades, should be similar to the original doors, not of a style or period earlier than the original building.
Front yards should not to be paved, covered with gravel, or otherwise used as a parking area.
A. New fences including wooden picket designs must be a maximum of three-and-a-half feet tall in front; have pickets no wider than four inches and set no further apart than three inches; and be of a design which is appropriate to the house. (See D. for rear wooden fences.)
B. Wood board fences for privacy should be located in rear yards; no taller than eight feet; set at least two-thirds back from the front facade (wall plane) of the structure; and should be stained or painted to blend with the structure; and of a compatible design.
C. Free-standing brick, stone, or concrete walls are permitted if appropriate to the structure.
D. Railroad ties and timbers are permitted for retaining walls.
E. Chain link fences are permitted in the rear yards, no taller than six feet. They must not extend any further forward than the front façade (eall plane) of the structure. Chain link fences are not permitted in front yards. Owners of chain link fences are encouraged to screen them with evergreen hedges, ivy or other creeping cover or by painting them dark green or black.
F. Fences of chicken wire, rabbit wire, hog wire, barbed wire or vinyl are not permitted.
G. New wood-like composite fencing materials may be considered.
Fire escapes are not permitted unless required by the building inspector, and no other means of fire escape is reasonably feasible. Fire escapes are required to be located where not readily visible from the street.
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Masonry foundations should be cleaned, repaired, and cared for according to masonry guidelines.
A. For residential areas in the Historic District, it is not permitted for a single-family home to have a permanent garbage collector. If (as in the case of a multi-family residential building), a garbage collector is necessary, it should be located at the rear of the house, or movable to the location of garbage pickup.
B. In no case should bagged, boxed or any other garbage other than in permanent garbage collectors be placed on the street longer that 24 hours before regular pickup days.
A. Downspouts on the front of the house should be located away from significant architectural features.
B. Gutters should be used to provide proper drainage through use of downspouts and flashing, if needed, to avoid water damage to the building.
A. Ramps should be located on secondary or rear facades.
B. Ramps should be of stained or painted wood construction.
C. Ramps should be screened with landscaping or low shrubbery to soften their appearance.
A. Plant materials (other than that required for screening parking lots) do not require approval.
B. Landscaping should not overwhelm a dwelling, conceal or obscure the primary facade.
C. It is important to maintain the large trees that line the streets of the Historic District through regular pruning. Missing trees should be replaced, when possible, in similar patterns to the originals.
D. Landscaping must conform to the requirements of the City of Eureka Springs Municipal Code governing trees, tree removal, and site clearing.
E. Landscape projects should be considered an important part of any site rehabilitation or new construction. In such cases, planting a strip of trees at the street edge, using landscaping to buffer parking. Landscaping to accent the scale, proportion, and massing of a building is encouraged.
F. Permanent landscape features such as water features, ponds and
garden walls of two feet or more above
grade must be approved by the HDC.
18.
Lighting
A. Security lighting should be mounted on secondary and rear facades with care taken on placement and direction to minimize intrusion on neighbors as well as street and pedestrian traffic.
B. Small foot-lights rather than freestanding post-mounted lights are more appropriate for walkways and driveways.
C. Post-mounted lights in residential areas should not exceed ten feet in height and should be brass, copper or painted metal on posts of wood, cast iron or painted metal.
D. Street lighting in the residential district should provide effective security for the neighborhood without compromising the large trees lining the streets.
E. Other than public utility streetlights, mercury vapor lights are prohibited.
A. Materials
1. Prevent water from making contact with exterior wood siding. Of particular importance is keeping all gutters and downspouts in good repair to keep water from infiltrating the wood surface.
2. All exposed wood should be kept painted or treated with preservative.
3. Repairs for wood siding, such as cracks, can be made through the use of waterproof glue or plastic wood. Large cracks may be filled with caulk followed by putty or plastic wood. The surface should then be sanded and painted.
4. Replacement siding must match the profile of the existing siding.
5. Oil based paints and back priming are recommended for exterior siding.
6. Keep exterior brick clean of mildew, efflorescence and dirt, vines, ivy, and other plants. Washing with detergents and water are best for exterior masonry and mortar. Sandblasting, water blasting and other abrasive cleaning methods are detrimental to buildings and must not be used.
7. Most silicone-based or waterproof coatings have limited effectiveness and may actually add to moisture problems by not allowing the brick to breathe. The use of these products is discouraged.
B. Roof, Cornices, Chimneys
1. Check the roof regularly for leak deterioration of flashing, and worn or missing roofing. An inspection of the upper floor or attic space during or following a rainstorm can also assist in detection of water-related problems.
2. Know what metals are used in your cornice or roof flashing and use only similar metals during replacement or repair. Different metals should not touch each other or galvanic reaction may occur leading to corrosion.
3. Chimneys should be regularly checked for cracking, leaning, spalling, and infestation by birds and insects. Use chimney caps to keep out moisture.
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C. Gutters and Downspouts
1. Keep gutters and downspouts in good repair. Make sure they are properly connected, are clean of leaves and other debris, and channel water away from the building. Seal all cracks in downspouts with silicone caulk or sealants.
2. Use splash blocks to keep water away from the foundation.
3. Deteriorated gutters and downspouts should be replaced.
D. Foundations
1. All water should drain away from a building and should not enter the foundation.
2. Trees, shrubs and other plants should be kept well away from the foundation to prevent damage from moisture and root movement.
E. Porches & Exterior Ornamentation
1. Use treated wood for exterior repairs, replacement of wooden elements.
2. Keep all porch and trim elements painted.
3. Front and side porches visible from the street must be kept clear of appliances, indoor furniture, trash and debris.
F. Entrances
1. Doors, transoms, sidelights and glass should be kept clean.
G. Windows
1. Windows should be kept clean. Paint wood sash surfaces regularly.
2. Windows should be kept caulked and sealed to aid in energy conservation.
3. Shutters should be kept painted and in good repair.
4. Deteriorated curtains or shades should be removed or replaced.
H. Awnings
1. Canvas awnings should be washed periodically and kept in good repair.
2. Awning hardware should be checked for rust or loose mechanisms.
3. Torn or deteriorated awnings should be replaced.
A. New HVAC units should be located where not readily visible from the street.
B. Existing systems, if visible, should be screened with shrubbery or fencing.
C. Window air-conditioners should be located in windows on the rear or side facades and must not result in the removal or replacement of the original window sash or surround.
D. Electrical and gas meters and other mechanical equipment must be located on the rear façade in all new construction.
E. New openings for heating and air-conditioning units must not be made on primary facades. New cuts on secondary facades, if visible from the street, must be carefully placed to minimize visual and structural impact.
A. It may be appropriate to move a building into the neighborhood if that building is compatible with the neighborhood’s architectural character in style, period, height, scale, materials, setting, and placement on the lot. See 26. New Construction.
B. New foundation walls should be compatible with the architectural style of the building.
New construction project applicants are advised to begin
with a pre-application hearing and site visit with working drawings. See Design
Review Checklist.
A. New construction of
primary buildings shall maintain, not disrupt, the existing pattern of surrounding
historic buildings along the street by being similar in the following:
1. Scale (height and width)
2. Shape
3. Roof shape and pitch
4. Orientation to the street
5. Location and proportion of entrances, windows, columns, porches, and divisional bays
6. Foundation/first floor height
7. Floor to ceiling height
8. Porch height and depth
9. Material and material color
10. Texture
11. Placement on the lot
12. Rhythm and harmony of the neighborhood.
B. New construction of ancillary structures such as garages, gazebos, storage buildings and other outbuildings should be:
1. Smaller in scale than the primary building
2. Simple in design but reflecting the general character of the primary building
3. Located where such a structure would have historically been located (near the alley, not close to or attached to the primary building).
4. Compatible in design, shape, materials, and roof shape.
5. Metal carports may be permitted.
Non-historic buildings are
considered non-contributing by the Arkansas Historic Preservation
Program. Non-contributing structures are reviewed for their compatibility
within the Historic District (size, massing, scale and rhythm) and not
necessarily for their individual elements. Although a building may not be
historic at this time, some day it will be. (It is generally accepted that a
building is considered “historic” when it reaches 50 years.) Each building
period has its own
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details and characteristics
which give that particular building its uniqueness. Non-
historic buildings should be
maintained as close to their original design as possible. It is in the owner’s
best interests to maintain the historic value of the property.
A. Paint colors should highlight architectural details. Keep colors compatible with the building's style and period of construction; avoid loud, garish, or harsh colors, and bright hues; avoid too many colors on a building; and select where to highlight architectural details based on the building's type and style.
C. Do not paint brick, stone or other naturally unpainted materials unless the material has been painted previously.
A. No property shall be
converted to parking usage without HDC approval.
B. Parking is not permitted in residential front yards.
C. Residential and commercial parking areas should be gravel, concrete, concrete aggregate, patterned concrete, stone, crushed limestone, or brick.
A. Front porches should be maintained in their original configuration and with original materials and detailing. Enclosure or removal of a front porch should be avoided.
B.
Wood-like composite materials may be considered.
two feet is considered to be a garden
wall.
A. Stone, brick or concrete
retaining walls that are original to the site must be
preserved and maintained.
B. New retaining walls may
be stone, stone veneer or limestone, imprinted
concrete, railroad ties, landscape timers or decorative
concrete.
D. Existing concrete block
retaining walls should be screened from street view.
A. The original shape and pitch of the roof with original features (such as chimneys, dormers, etc.) should be preserved.
B. Unless original to the house, dormers should not be placed in front rooflines. The addition of dormers to secondary and rear facades is appropriate if in keeping with the character and scale of the house.
C. Skylights, decks, or balconies must not be added to a roof where visible from the street.
D. Standing seam metal roofs are not appropriate except for some non-residential structures.
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Satellite
dishes must only be installed where not visible from the street.
Screening of front porches is not appropriate.
A. Security doors should be simple and without excessively ornate grillwork.
B. The use of security bars on primary facade windows is discouraged,
but if necessary, internal bars may be considered.
A. Shutters should be of
louvered wood construction, and of a size and style appropriate to the
building.
B. Window boxes should be of
a size appropriate to the window opening.
See “Summary” ES Municipal Code, Section 9.08 Sidewalks, page 47.
A. Siding original to the building should be repaired and maintained.
B. Siding of artificial or substitute materials such as steel, vinyl or aluminum, masonite, permastone, concrete or composite is permitted.
All signs, number and location of signs and lighting must
conform to the Eureka Springs Municipal Code, Chapter 7.84 Signs..
Skylights
must not be added where visible from the street.
Solar
energy panels must be located on rear sections of the roof, behind dormers or
gables or other areas not visible from the street.
A.
Staircases must not be added to building exteriors where visible from the
street.
A.
Steps and walkways original to a property must be retained and maintained.
B.
Step railings (if required) and gates must be of design and materials
compatible to the structure on the property and surrounding landscape.
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A. Storm doors must be full-view and baked-on enamel or anodized aluminum in a color compatible with the building. Silver aluminum storm doors on the primary and secondary facades are not appropriate.
B. Storm windows must be wood or baked-on enamel, or anodized aluminum in compatible colors and fit within the window frames, not overlap the frames. Silver aluminum storm windows on the primary and secondary facades are not appropriate.
Swimming
pools, hot tubs and spas must be located in the rear yard and must be screened
from street view by privacy fencing,
evergreens or lattice appropriate to the usage.
A. All plumbing, gas and electrical lines must be disconnected and capped in a safe manner in compliance with the City of Eureka Springs Building Code.
B. Debris from vacant lots must be removed.
C. Planting and maintenance of ground cover is encouraged. Grassy lots must be mowed.
D. Trees and shrubbery on vacant lots must be pruned and maintained.
A. Windows on primary
facades should be preserved in their original location,
size and design.
B. Non-original windows must not be added to primary facades.
C. Vinyl, vinyl-clad or any clad wood windows are allowed.
A. Wood and wood details original to a building should be repaired rather than replaced.
B. If exposed structural elements such as beams and rafter rails are a decorative element, they should be retained and maintained.
C. Replacement of wood features and details must match the originals in dimension, size, profile and materials.
D. Wood must always be treated and kept in good order (including paint, stain, nailing, etc.)
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EUREKA SPRINGS HISTORIC DISTRICT COMMISSION
DESIGN
REVIEW GUIDELINES FOR
NON-HISTORIC
RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS
East Mountain Dr. 21 East Mountain 1960
15
East Mountain 1962
12
East Mountain 1963
All
others 1965+
Charles Circle 7 Charles Circle 1975
All
others 1978+
Cross Street 2
Cross 1965
7
Cross 1965
10
Cross 1965
All
others 1970+
Drennon Drive None at present
Elm Circle 3
Elm Circle 1970
No
others at present
Florence Drive 1 Florence 1980+
Harvey Drive 17
Harvey 1975
All
others 1976+
Oakridge Drive 6 Oakridge 1970
All
others 1975+
Richard Circle 3 Richard Circle 1975
No
others at present
Tower Road 5
Tower 1985
No
others at present
Wood Circle All 1989+
College Street All 1965
Hamilton Street All 1968
Martz Lane All 1968+
Victoria Woods Blvd All 1992+
Jay Lane All 1992+
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